I hated Chardonnay for most of my life. Buttery, oaky, full bodied….you know what I mean. I was drinking the typical California style Chardonnay wine like the best selling Kendall-Jackson.
Then I discovered that all Chardonnays are not created equal. On the recommendation of a friend, I tried a bottle from Burgundy, France, the country where this varietal originates, and my life changed.
How To Love Chardonnay
Now I love Chardonnay, and you can too. Trust me.
The first thing to know about this grape is that it is what is called a “neutral” variety. Unlike aromatic wines, (think of the big bouquet you inhale when drinking a nice New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc), it has a fairly neutral aroma profile. From cool climates you will get citrus and green apple, and as you move to wines from warmer climates, it moves to ripe pears and peaches to melon and tropical fruits. Chardonnay aromas and flavors are all much more subtle than a Sauvignon Blanc or a Riesling, for example.
A neutral wine gives the winemaker somewhat of a blank canvas on which to paint. This gives an opportunity to create different styles, which we can summarize as “Old World” and “New World”. You probably are used to drinking a California Chard, from Sonoma perhaps, which is a great example of “New World” style. The winemaker’s craft is evident here, on a foundation of a warmer climate flavor profile – ripe apple, peach, melon, pineapple.
There will be buttery flavors and a creamy texture, along with less acidity from malolactic fermentation or MLF. This is a process that converts tart malic acid (think green apple) to smoother, softer lactic acid (as in milk!). MLF produces diacetyl, which is the chemical that gives butter its distinct flavor).
New World Chards
In New World style Chardonnays, oak fermentation and/or aging is the norm, and it is often new oak, which imparts vanilla, toast, and spice notes to a wine. This is also often accomplished in less expensive wines by putting oak chips or staves into a stainless steel vat to impart oak flavors.
These primary and secondary flavors from MLF and use of oak intermingle to give the typical “New World” Chard – the style I unfortunately do not really enjoy. Give me citrus, fruit, lightness and acidity please!
Originally From France
Since this grape is originally from France, you will find a style there that does not involve a lot of secondary flavors (ones from the winemaker) but rather a reflection of the place where it is grown, what we call terroir. There will be more acidity, perhaps a bit of buttery flavors from malolactic conversion, maybe a little subtle oak flavor, or none at all, but you will taste the primary fruit flavors
Try a Chablis or Pouilly-Fuisse or even a Macon (all from Burgundy, where Chardonnay reigns supreme) to get an idea of this style. You’ll find a difference from the cooler wines (Chablis) to the warmer climate wines (Macon or even Pays d’Oc from the south of France).
My Recommendations
Chardonnay is one of the most popular grapes in the world, so you will find it grown everywhere. I invite you to try a bottle from Western Australia, Margaret River or Barossa Valley. These may have notes of peach and tangerine, along with floral and vanilla aromas. You’ll find Chard from Chile’s Limari Valley (notes of banana and melon) and in New Zealand (Hawke’s Bay and Nelson, as well as Marlborough). Even Italy and South Africa make nice wines that are fun to experiment with. Here are a few very reasonably priced recommendations:
- Grgich Hills Estate Chardonnay 2018
- Flowers Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2022
- Peter Paul Bacigalupi Vineyard Chardonnay 2020
- Domaine de l’Enclos Chablis Beauroy Premier Cru 2022
- Simonnet-Febvre Chablis Fourchaume Premier Cru 2021
- Mt. Beautiful Chardonnay 2019
- Matetic EQ Quartz Chardonnay 2017
Splurge worthy:
Best value for quality:
